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ITALY: Hiking and hitch-hiking on the E1 Trail


AROUND THE WORLD BY FOOT Travelling across Italy became the first stage of the project “Around the World by Foot”, within which Valery Shanin explores the best pedestrian trails of the world. Lyudmila Parova became Valery Shanin’s fellow traveler in the hike along the E1 Trail. ITALY: E1 Trail The travel begins in Rome. Exactly here, is the largest international airport in Italy. The holiday of the Christ’s Body and Blood, or in Italian Corpus Christi, is celebrated annually on Thursday after the Trinity. In 2015, this day falls on June 4. The holiday of the Holy Eucharist or the Sacrament of Holy Communion, is celebrated in all Catholic churches and temples, since the 13th century. By the special bulla of the Pope, everyone who takes part in the ceremony, is given induct. This is why, there are so many people here. The distinctive feature of this holiday is the fact that, it does not take place inside the church walls. Or rather to say, not only there. Along the city streets, there is a solemn procession going with Sacred Gifts. It is led by the priests, followed by parishioners. And after them, anyone who wants to join. – Everybody is heading to the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore on the Eskvilin Hill, is not just a church, of which they are many, but one of the four main basilicas of the eternal city. The cathedral of the highest rank! The first church on this place was constructed in 325 AD. By the legend, it happened after the whole hill was covered by snow — a very rare and even unique phenomenon for Rome. In the 14th century, the cathedral was adjoined by a bell-tower, 75 meters high. The church acquired its present appearance in the 18th century. It was also then, that this original ceiling appeared. It was decorated with gold, stolen by conquistadors in Peru. The most valuable of the numerous relics, that made the collection of the cathedral during long centuries, is the piece of a wooden cot, in which the baby Jesus was once lying. In chapels, the pontiffs and famous Italians are buried. – Very beautiful stained-glass window. But the camera does not render its full beauty. San Pietro-in-Vinkoli, is one of the seven big basilicas of Rome. It was constructed at the expense of the Empress Evdoksiya, for keeping of the chains of Saint Peter. So, pilgrims come to bow here. Tourists, however, are attracted to the tomb of the Pope Yuliy II. Or rather more, to the well-known sculpture of Moses, work of Michelangelo. It has to be photographed. The churches in Rome are not only religious objects, but also museums, fully loaded with works of art. The Colosseum — one of the most majestic constructions of the Ancient World. his giant amphitheater, with the capacity of 60 thousand people, is the same easily recognizable symbol of the city, as the Eiffel Tower in Paris, Big Ben in London, Kremlin Spasskaya Tower in Moscow or Karlov Bridge in Prague. All tourists, coming to Rome even for one day, assume their duty to visit it. If not to go inside, than at least to make a memorable photograph. From the Colosseum, the street is going to the square of Santa-Maria-in-Kosmiedin. Rome was founded in 753 B.C., somewhere exactly here. On the bank of Tiber. In ancient times, across the bed of this river, there used to be the border between Etruscans on the west, Sabinyans on the east and Latinians on the south. On the territory of Rome, the left and right banks of Tiber are connected by 26 bridges. Along with new ones, there are also fairly old constructions, that remained. The small Island of Tiberina, from the height of a bird’s flight, looks like a fishing boat. In ancient times, there were temples here, dedicated to Esculap, Jupiter, Faun and other Roman gods. The christians demolished them all and on the vacant place, built a basilica in honor of Adalbert Prague. It is neither Rome, nor even Italy, but a separate independent state, despite its miniature size — the Vatican. St. Peter’s Cathedral — the biggest Catholic church in the world – stands on the ground where, according to ancient legends, Saint Peter was buried. During large religious holidays, in the cathedral and on the square, adjoining to it, can be up to 460 thousand parishioners. Even on regular days, it is always busy here. The Catholics from around the world are flowing down here. And curious tourists, of course. There are so many people, that it is not easy to get inside the cathedral. It is necessary to wait in line for several hours and pass through the security control, just like in international airports. The most devout Catholics or especially convinced tourists, of course, are ready to endure everything. For the rest, Vatican is the square with fountains. Anyone can access freely here. The Castle of the Holy Angel or Castel Sant’Angelo, initially was the Mausoleum of the Emperor Adrian and members of his family. But in the Middle Ages, the Popes reconstructed it and turned it into an unapproachable fortress. In the times of strifes, they hid inside of it from the public’s wrath. Revolts used to happen surprisingly often in Rome. Later, there was a prison here. And now it is a museum. The Bridge of the Holy Angel, was built at the same time as Adrian’s mausoleum — in the 2nd century of our era. It remained here since then, without an overhaul. Only in the 16th century, it was upgraded a little. It received the statues of Saints Peter and Paul. And later, another 10 angels were added. During the Emperor Julius Caesar’s reign period, on the place of the present Navon Square, there was a stadium, that accommodated 15 thousand spectators. Here, they used to host running, discus throw and fist-fighting competitions. In the arcade of the ground floor, there were food stalls, workshops of artisans and brothels. The Christian Agnessa, was sent to one of those brothels. On the place of her martyrdom, in the 12th century, there was a church constructed. There are houses now on the places of the stadium tribunes. And the sports arena became the square. In Rome, one can spend a day, or two, or a week, and there still will be something to see. But it’s time to go to the beginning of the E1 Trail. It is easier and more convenient to leave Rome by train The railway station is right in the center of the old city. It is easy to reach it by foot. – It is approximately a 55 minutes trip. We will see what stations we’ll be passing, so we’ll know where to exit. – Pass, it is Europe. -We have gotten to an inconvenient place. There is such a triangle here: two roads are connecting. It is the main highway. And this is the departure point from the Village of Frozione. – I can’t even say hello yet. To ask – “where are you going?” – Try at least one, for a start. – It’s free of charge. – Free thing can not be not tasty? – Haven’t we passed here already? – Valery, please comment. – Such a cheerful girl. She stopped herself. The town of Kampoli Apenino is built around a huge karstic landslip, almost of a perfect semicircular shape. There is not a lot of space on the crest of the hill. The construction site is quite dense. – Very narrow streets. The stone houses stand here since the Middle Ages. They were only slightly renovated. Only thirty years ago, there was neither water supply system, nor the sewer. The streets are narrow and the main square is the size of a basketball field. However, they live here with a tremendous view over the plain, lying below. – It is already the second day as we are looking for the beginning of the trail No. 1. So far, the result is the same as it was with the Chelebi Trail. The roads are very similar to Turkish ones. Olive trees, beautiful mountains. But the actual trail is not visible yet. It should be some place here. – The internal voice prompts that there is a trail somewhere here. – We are going down the route SS 666. We stood for half an hour, nobody was stopping. And here, to our surprise, we got a ride on a tractor. The cozy medieval town Opi, is included in the prestigious list of “the most beautiful villages of Italy”. There is only one, but very long street in Opi. It still keeps the traces of the recently ended celebration. Infiorate, is the flower festival on the occasion of the Catholic holiday of the Christ’s Body and Blood. The tradition of covering the streets with flower petals, where the religious procession would pass, originates from antique times. However, it was only several centuries ago, when it was included in the ceremony of solemn procession with Sacred Gifts. In Opi, the flowers are spread as colored shavings along the path made of sand and salt. It turns out to be something like a huge Buddhist mandala. Grandiose by its scale and being so labor-consuming, but an ephemeral work of the religious art. In Peskasseroli, the procession with Sacred Gifts is also combined with a flower festival of Infiorate. The holiday has already ended. But its traces are noticeable everywhere. Adults, probably, can not raise their hands on the works of art, in the creation of which they actively participated. Children are less sensitive. They are bold enough to turn the sumptuous decorations into heaps of garbage. The first fortress appeared here before the Romans. And in the Middle Ages, there was the majestic Castle Castel Manchino towering over the city, the residence of the Сount Chilano. Only the ruins remained now, but very picturesque. And with impressive view. It is worth coming here, only for the sake of it. The parish Сhurch of Saint Paul, was founded in the 12th century, and was repeatedly restored. The wooden statue of Madonna, that used to stand in the church of the destroyed Manchino’s Castle earlier, is stored here. It is this church, where people flow to during the feast of Corpus Christi. The longest sand-salt drawings finish here. – Earlier, it was the path. Now it’s all being removed. Yesterday was the last day, when we could see this beauty. The famous Italian philosopher, historian and literary critic Benedetto Croce, was born in Peskasseroli, in 1866. But an even greater influence on the destiny of the city and its appeal to tourists, was rendered by the event that took place on September 9, 1922. On this day, the National Park of Abruzzo, Lazio and Molize was created. Here is its headquarters. From here the most popular tourist walking trails begin. Somewhere here, also passes the E1 Trail. But where exactly? Strange, but even the park’s personnel are not aware. – There are plenty of ways, and possibly a million trails. But it’s not clear where is the trail number one. It was raining all night long. The water washed away the last remaining sandy and salt paths, that were not cleaned yet. The holiday is over. – We spent the night in the warmth of a hotel, and listened to the streams of rain, threshing on the roof. There we were, at the beginning of the trail. It is still not the trail that we looked for. It is not E1, but A1 Trail. We’re starting from the outskirts of Peskasseroli. Then the trail goes up to the mountain pass. The fork appeared, either to turn on A3, or to continue on A1. – We are walking without a tent. So, this is how we have to exercise our wit and create our own tent. It is slightly warmer this way. We had to leave from under the roof. The rain hasn’t absolutely ended, but it has temporarily stopped. – As it rains, and I have no wish to walk around with wet feet, I figured the following: I took plastic bags and wrapped them around my feet. I am walking across the ponds, my sneakers are of fishnet design and I can see that they are wet, but I don’t feel damp. – Such a feeling, that the bear should come out now from behind the tree. – Yes. The heavy rain still took us by surprise. My super method with plastic bags did not help me. The bags appeared to be full of holes, and my feet got all soaking wet. We were flooded by the rain. Such enormous rivers have spread. – We have just seen a bear. We haven’t managed to photograph it, of course. But suffered a great deal of fear. – I am very happy that we are not going to stay overnight in the woods, because we saw a deer. It is fine by me. But how to sleep with bears walking around? – What a beauty after the long rain. – We have gotten out of the thick forest and met one more bear. – We have gotten to the city. Do you feel it is cooler here, than there. – Yes, I feel. I am cold. – Where are you climbing? Be careful, there is a pit under your feet. The stopping point is made of concrete and unfinished. – Do you see the pit under your feet? – We will spend a night here on the concrete. On concrete with walls, it is better, than on the wet grass. The City of Rocca-di-Medzo, has been founded as a military settlement back in the Middle Ages. But when exactly, nobody knows. The oldest part of the city is on the San Kalvario Hill. Locals are proud of the fact that, in 1954, the famous director Federico Fellini, was filming his movie “La Strada” here. It has later received the Oscar for best movie in foreign language. – The Italian mountain town. The streets are very narrow. The houses are ancient. Six years ago, there was an earthquake here, part of the houses was destroyed after it. There is an extensive construction and restoration. It is necessary to squeeze in between the cars. If people come to Rocca-di-Medzo in winter to do some mountain skiing, than in the spring and in the summer, it is the fans of wild flowers, who flow down here. At the beginning of June, the traditional festival of yellow narcissuses takes place here. – After yesterday’s rain, I have soaked all my sneakers. It was almost possible to squeeze water out of them. I have attached them on to my backpack, and while we were walking, they have dried. – A little longer and I could have a heatstroke. – Here is the tent, for example, “Two seconds”. – We have already acquired the tent, we have found a super optimal tent for 20 euros. – Let’s go to the lake, we’ll swim. – We met one person. His name is Gianni. He has brought us here. – There, what can a person do for the sake of a good picture. It pricked me. – Handsome athletes. Like us, only by bicycles. We are on the territory of the National Park Gran Saso Italy. It is the largest national park in Italy. And here is the highest top of the Apenine peninsula, the Corno Grande mountain. The height is 2914 meters. – After I got soaking wet in the National Park of Abrutso, we have gone and bought a tent. Now when it started to rain again, we have set it up. The thunder rattles, lightnings sparkle while we quietly, in the comfort, are reading a book. – Now we are walking along the road of Lago di Compatosto. Somewhere very close ahead, there should be the Poggio Kancheli. – In the deserted village, scary. – We are heading to see the canyon, that is located somewhere in the region of Chilano. In the city, where the Italian mafia was born. – The Canyon is 10 kilometers long, the descent is 500 meters. So there is a height difference. We are going down from the top. – Who would think, that Italy was the bear’s nook. It seems a decent European country. – I thought that bears were only in Russia. – I thought that bears were only in Russia. But no, there are plenty of them in Italy. – Let’s go. We were walking along the canyon and have found a remarkable bathtub. Water is so clear, because it comes from the spring. The depth is knee high. But it is long, it is possible so swim here, if desired. The narrow part of the canyon has begun. There is a trail, but where does it lead is unknown. At least, it is well trodden. We are walking along the course of the stream. We have absolutely lost the trail, it is not clear where we are. I wonder, what did they mean? What are these two arrows? – The Chilano’s Canyon turned out to be a confusing place. We have attempted to find the correct trail 3 times already. Even it seemed like we found something. But we have the feeling, that we are walking in circles and will end up coming to the place, where we began. – We have returned to the same place, where we started. – See, there are bears here. Gianni has picked us from the canyon and brought us to his home. We have gotten there in time for dinner. – We were suggested to stay in something, that they call, club. It is really a space, resembling a club. The premises are not inhabited in winter. They set beds. – The local tourist route for horseback-riding is one of the longest in Europe. Its total length is about 150 kilometers. It begins here and leads to the Mountains of Gran Sasso — to the highest tops of the Apennine peninsula. – The horse riding route is shown on this map. It is possible, of course, to walk it by foot. It begins in Rieti, crosses the mountains and valleys and passes by the lakes on the territory of the National Park of Gran Sasso. – The next stage is awaiting for us and from here we are going to go to the next national park, located to the north of Monti Siblini. This is what they printed out for us, as for, where the E1 Trail lies in Umbria. – We started towards Norsia. – It’s raining, it is wet and damp. Everybody peers here in surprise. – We are hitchhiking, waiting for the next lift. We meet very nice people. – This is the Lake of Lago di Pilato at the top of Monte Vettore. – Is there also snow now? – Can be. But not so much, as on this photo. It is not hot here even in summer, and in winter, everything is covered with a thick layer of snow. Castelluco is located on the rocky hill, 1452 meters above the sea level. It is the highest settlement in Apennines. Slightly lower, at the altitude of 1270 meters, the Plano Grande Plateau is stretching. The city was officially founded in the 13th century, but people lived here already at the time of the Roman Empire. – We are in Italy, in the beautiful City of Castelluco. Correct? – Correct. There is the mountain behind us. – The mountain is more than 2900 meters high. We are standing at the altitude of 2504 meters. – It is very beautiful here, but it is cold. The most interesting is, that our Trail E1 begins exactly here. – If we find it. – We will find. Has it been before that we didn’t find something? Not counting the Chelebi Trail. – Yes, we will surely find it. Let’s go look for it? In winter, people come here for skiing, and to admire yellow fields of blossoming colza in summer, to wander in the boundless sea of wild flowers. Here you can see the gentians, poppies, narcissuses, violets, asfodels, the violet lady’s bedstraws, clovers, cranberries and other types of wild flowers. – The remarkable valley, all in flowers. One problem, the weather is wrong. It is too cloudy and wet. – The road is deserted, there are no cars neither in one nor in the other direction. We can walk straight in the middle of the road, without disturbing anyone. – We have got to the small medieval Town of Castel San’Angelo. Except for the castle, there is a church here and small streets. The walls of the 15th century and the general appearance of the typical Italian medieval town, with narrow paved streets and stone houses, that are lop-sided because of their old age, have remained until our days. The small town of Visso, is located in the Valley of the Neru River, on the ancient road, connecting Rome with Folinio. The old city, surrounded with fortified walls, has kept its medieval appearance. In the center, at the square of Martyrs, the Collegiate Church of Saint Maria has preserved. It was established in the 12th century. And later, it was repeatedly reconstructed and restored. Since 1993, in Visso, there is the headquarters of the National Park of Monti Sibilini. The E1 Trail passes somewhere across its territory. It is only necessary to find it. We haven’t managed to locate it so far. But Valery Shanin and Lyudmila Parova keep up their enthusiasm. And again, they are departing in search of it. – The person has agreed to give us a ride to the church. Sanctuario Madonna di Macereto, has been founded in the 14th century. It is no longer an active monastery. And the church is open only on big holidays. One of the pedestrian tourist routes passes here. Unfortunately, it is not the E1 Trail. – Sweet cherries for breakfast. – I am climbing to the very top to pick the most tasty ones. To have a quick bite and run quickly further. The National Park of “Monti Sibillini”, the name, that can be translated as the Park of Mysterious Mountains, was created in 1993, on the territory of 70 thousand hectares in the Italian regions of Umbria and Marke. There are mountains here, over two kilometers high. According to the legend, the cave of the antique prophetess Sivilla, hides somewhere there. There are many unique species of plants that were preserved on the territory of the park. There are even wild animals here. There are no bears, though. The agricultural activity is not forbidden. You can meet hunters here too. Or are they poachers? – It is the second day that we eat only cherries. It is our fruit diet. The City of Fiastra is small and provincial. But it doesn’t lag behind the progress. There is already Internet here. However, only in the city hall building. According to archeologists, the first settlements on this place appeared at the time of the Neolithic era. In the 11th century, on Saint Paul’s Hill, the Fortress of Castrum Flastrae was constructed, surrounded with a high stone wall with seven towers. In the middle of the 13th century, the castle became the residence of the Magalotti family. The Church of the Apostle Paul, was founded at the same time as the construction of the castle. In the 19th century, it was destroyed by an earthquake. The present building is constructed with the stones, taken from the ruins. Fiastra Lake is artificial. It has appeared after the river was partitioned by the high dam. Therefore, the banks here are not flat, but steep. It is not really convenient to swim here. And it is difficult to find a flat spot for the tent. The church is constructed on the ruins of the Benedictine Monastery of San Giovanni. In the beginning, it was called San Flaviano, but later it was renamed in honor of the local saint. Saint Giovanni Ugolino, was born in 1400, in an aristocratic family. But after he remained an orphan, he sold all the property, distributed money to the poor and became a monk. He spent all his time in prayers and meditations, on the bank of the stream. The church was restored and reconstructed several times. Separate elements and the general appearance have remained, as well as the frescos of the 15th-18th centuries. – I had to climb on a tree for some large cherries. In the shop, this kind of cherry is sold 5 euros. – We got stuck in the church. The rain has begun, we don’t know when it will end. – Shall we spend the night here? – Maybe we’ll need to stay overnight. – Italy is kind of wet. It is constantly raining here. It is like St. Petersburg, not like Italy. We get soaking wet all the time. – Our tent’s awning is useful. – Valery leads, he sees a gleam. There is some hole though, at least. I can see nothing at all, I trust him. – Still it is blowing inside a little. – We can zip the entrance. – Then we won’t see anything. This way we see something. – We can be guided by the asphalt road: if there is asphalt under our feet, it will mean that we are on the right way. I am absolutely soaking wet. Shivers, feet are wet, lips are blue. – Doesn’t rain yet, but behind, the cloud is catching up with us. – And in front, it is not too much lighter. – I got it, 1991. Isn’t it, when the war was in Yugoslavia? – Sometimes we are lucky and it is sunny, and sometimes it is not the best weather. – We are looking for a place under a roof. The weather is cloudy. Of course, we could stay in the tent, but it is cold and wet. Here, we arrived, La Cassetto. – Saint Illarion. – We have terms, we need to get to the sea soon. Let’s go, we will see churches after. – Haven’t we eaten a lot of cherries already. Why do you take so much? – I have even eaten a bit too much. – Why do you climb? – For you. I will try. – We are using our favorite hitchhiking. The doggie has given us its seat. Its owner took it on her knees. – I know how to open a bottle of beer, but I won’t be drinking. – She can’t, she is pregnant. – Generally, it is scary to ride on a car, where the driver is drinking beer behind the wheel. Oh, dear … Why have we sat down here? Maybe I should drink some too, not to be afraid? – I am happy that he has dropped us a bit earlier and haven’t taken us to Terni. Because as long as we were going, I was remembering: if I have told everybody, that I loved them and kissed them? Yes. I have finished all the affairs, that needed to be done. I got out, there is likely grey hair on my head now. – Have you seen the Marmara Falls? The largest waterfall of Europe. Close to Terni, only a couple of kilometers away. 140 meters high. – This is how we got to the falls. Beautiful, streaming waterfalls near the City of Terni. San Gemini — a small charming town in Umbria. It stands on the ancient Roman road -Via Flaminiya. In the 9th century, the monk Gemini arrived here from Syria. He became famous for his kindness and sanctity. So, the city was named in his honor. San Gemini is a small town, but it is among the most beautiful medieval towns of Italy. From the terrace, there is a view opening over the Terni valley. – Here is the place, where it is possible to have a good rest in silent, quiet and pacifying atmosphere. – This hotel is a former monastery. It was re-done into a very comfortable hotel. – There is such an assortment of food for breakfast. However, in my opinion, it is not an absolutely healthy breakfast. There are no eggs, no porridge, but there are various yogurts. On the highest point of the city, in the building of the female Franciscan convent, the museum of the artist, Guido Calori, was created. – The convent was built in the 16th century. The works of the famous sculptor, who was born in Rome, were brought here several years ago. In four halls of the museum, there is a collection of the sculptures and pencil sketches of the artist Guido Calori, transported here from his workshop in Rome. – And here is the exposition, dedicated to the World War I. – The donkey is wearing a gas mask. The demolishing dogs. – Active girl, she stopped on such a cool car. We were just about to walk. She took us to the area, away from the city. And here, in theory, hitchhiking has to be better. The farther from the city, the higher is the chance of meeting more sympathetic people. – Italy is some wet place. It has brightened up, it is a little less rainy. The grey clouds chase us from behind. We decided to go after all. We hope that, the rain will go on that side and will overtake the grey cloud. We are simply optimists. – The rules of hitchhiking: it is necessary to communicate with the driver. Who are we, from where are we? – It is a very difficult economic situation in Italy now. – Yes. – It is in Russia too. – In Russia? In Russia, there are a lot of money! You have a very good president — Putin. I respect him. Todi, located in the province of Perugia, on the high hill over the eastern bank of Tiber River, is often called “the city, most suitable for life, in the world”. According to the legend, the city was founded by Heracles himself, who gave it the name of Eklis. The first historical evidences go back to the 8th century BC. It is when the tribes of umbra established the settlement of Tuter, on the border of Etruscan possessions. Later, Romans renamed it as Toder. The Hannibal’s army passed by the city, and decided against storming the double raw fortifications, that surrounded it. Here, in 649, the Pope Martin the First was born, who was highly esteemed both by the Catholic, and Orthodox Churches. Today, Todi is one of the most popular tourist towns of Umbria. Practically, all of its medieval monuments – the cathedral, del Capitano’s Palace, Priori’s Palace and del Popolo’s Palace – are facing the main city square. The Gothic Cathedral of Todi was constructed in the 11th century, on the base of the antique temple of Apollo. During the construction, the bronze statue of Mars was found, it is still kept in the Vatican museums. – When it is raining in Italy, everybody stays in their homes, they don’t go out. – We don’t like rain either. – I am English, I am used to rains. I am originally from London. But I live here for 25 years. I like it here. The atmosphere is, of course, a little sleepy, compared to London. But the places are very beautiful. – We are wet a bit. – I understand. Where did you get these 20 euros from, Valery? – I found it on the wet grass. Somebody lost it, at night probably. – The road is deserted, but cars pass periodically. No, this one is packed. And the shortcoming is that today is Sunday. There are less cars than on a regular day. People usually go with their whole family, as we can observe now. All cars are completely packed. – We’ll need to walk on foot. – On foot, on foot? – On foot, on foot? Please don’t exaggerate too much. – Today we are having some strange hitchhiking. As soon as we decide to go on foot and lose hope. We put our backpacks on. One last time, thumb up and the car stops. Simply amazing. The driver gave us a lift to the Town of Pigliano. Although originally, he was not intending to come here. The Medici’s aqueduct was constructed in the middle of the 16th century, for the delivery of water from the neighboring streams of the city. The water, that came from the mountains, flows in the fountain with Seven cranes. The Orsini Palace was both an ancient fortress, and a Franciscan monastery, and now it is an historical museum. Archeologists confirmed that, on the territory of the present city, people already lived at the time of Etruscans. But the first written record refers to 1061. At the end of the 13th century, the city was turned under the power of the Orsini family. Then, for a long time, it was on the border between the Great duchy of Tuscan and the Pope’s lands. Here, the Jews ran from their persecution in Rome. In the middle of the 16th century, the Jewish district appeared in the city. It was called “the small Jerusalem”. The Jews peacefully lived here, in the neighborhood with Christians, up until the establishment of Mussolini’s fascist dictatorship. The Jewish district has remained until now. But Jews no longer live here. The monument of “a peasant with a donkey” wasn’t placed in the city for no reason. Pigliano is situated in the center of an extensive agricultural region. They grow grapes and olive trees, sow wheat and create bee apiaries, gather fruits and truffles. The shops specialize in selling local environmentally friendly products. The wine is most valued. In the trade hall, it is displayed as pictures in the museum — with information plates. It is stored in special wine cellars. Even Etruscans knew that, the aging of wine in the cellars, dug in the tufa soil, slows down the fermentation and gives the drink a pleasant sweet relish. However, there is not only wine here. There is also a grape vodka — grappa. And honey. And olive oil. And seasonings. And sauces. And pasta. And spaghetti. And jams. And everything that is grown here, collected and processed in the neighboring villages and farms. – Beautiful city. – I worked all my life on television and on radio. But this is all in the past. I am a pensioner now. San Stephano was a sea resort back in the Roman time. t was then called the Port of Traiano or the Port of Chetarias. – Here? – We need to get to the first beach. – How is your pizza? – My knowledge of the language has let me down. The vegetarian has ordered a pizza with fish. Now I struggle. I want pizza very much, but I am picking out the fish. – Interesting, how should I signal? – Yes, it is funny. They react unusually. It’s not every day, that they meet travelers, holding the signs, trying to catch the car in the necessary direction. Midday sun is very strong and this hand of mine is already fried. I am not sure, how long I can stand here. – I will make advances to the driver now. Hi! Let’s go there. No, he says he goes another way. He could have changed his mind. The hitchhiking on the highway did not work. We have returned to the railroad. – We are in a double-decked train. We climbed on the second floor. It is the first time, that I travel on the second floor. The travel across Italy comes to an end. We did not manage to find the E1 Trail. However, it is not a reason to be upset. Valery Shanin and Lyudmila Parova don’t lose their optimism. They are going to France, to look for Saint James’ Trail. The project “Around the World by Foot” continues.

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