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How to Raise the Shirt Pattern Armscye by Sure-Fit Designs

Hi everyone my name is Glenda with
Sure-Fit Designs – commonly referred to as Glenda the Good Stitch. Those of you who
already sew with the Sure-Fit Designs fitting designing and sewing system know
how flexible it can be for all of your sewing needs. Today I’d like to focus on
the Shirt Kit and the armscye. And why is that? Well very recently I received a
question on it was how do I raise the underarm of the armscye up to make it
less deep. And so I’d like to first of all explain to you why the shirt pattern
pieces are the way they are. So let’s take a look at this blouse that I have
on the mannequin here. Done from the Shirt Kit – does not have a bust fitting
Dart again most of you realize that the shirt pattern is a dartless garment if
you need to add one you can there are directions for it but initially it
starts off without a bust dart. And when it doesn’t have a bust dart, it means
that you need to have more wearing ease in the circumference of the bust line and
so the shirt kit provides about five and a half to six inches of ease. Now because
it’s got more ease it means that it requires the deeper armscye and with the
deeper armscyeI it means that the sleeve cap is flatter and the sleeve is wider.
But does that mean you can’t raise the armscye? No of
course not – you definitely can. As we take a look at the jacket that I’m currently
wearing I have raised the armscye and now I’d like to take you to the pattern and
show you how easy that is to do. We’ll begin on the shirt front. You will
already have drawn off your shirt front in your size of course in your
measurements and I’m going to come up one inch and I’m going to make a dot and
then what I’m going to do is pencil this in because I just want to get a visual
idea of how best the curve should look. And then I’ll come back to it and I will
true it up with the Designing Stylus. So just take your Designing Stylus and use
curves that best follow your pencil line and
I’m going to do this in a different color so that you can see it. And then to
finish off that curve I’ll just flop the Designing Stylus over
and come out like this so the armscye now has come up one inch. And then I
would blend back down into the existing side seam like that. Another thing that
you’ll want to do is extend the matching notch out like that. Let’s move on to the
shirt back. It will be the same process. You’re going to measure up one inch like
this and make a dot. Then you’re going to come with your pencil and just visually
make a nice smooth curve and then come back with your Designing Stylus and
start truing and blending that curve so that it’s completed. And of course on the
back we’re going to extend double notches for the notch at the back of the
armscye. And then just blend back down in to that side seam. So now let’s take a
look at the sleeve pattern. Going over here we’re going to do virtually the
same thing. I will measure up one inch and make a dot and I’m going to pencil
this in so that I can get a visual perspective of a nice smooth curve. I’ll
do the same thing on the other side come up one inch and then I’m just visually
blending and truing from the cap. Now I’ll come in with a different color so
that you can see this and I’ll come like this and then I have to just shift the
Stylus a little bit more to finish that off and we’ll blend at the side seam and
do the same thing over here and blend down into the side
seam. Lastly let’s remember the matching notches the single notch goes in the
front and the double notch goes in the back of the sleeve cap. I know that when
many of you see this little video I’m going to be getting phone calls and
emails asking how I did the rest of this jacket. Well I’ll give you some
guidelines – number one I sewed it out of a knit fabric and that means that I
reduced some of the ease that’s in the garment and you can size down one or two
dots depending of course on how stretchy your fabric is. And what do I mean by
sizing down one or two dots? Well if you started off with a 40 inch bust you’re
going to come down to perhaps a 39 or maybe even a 38 dot. You’re getting rid
of some of the ease because the knit is so stretchy. Then what I did to create
this flare and and fullness and flouncy kind of stuff on the on the top was I
spread the side seam open about 6 inches. Then I took the front of it and I cut
from the hemline up to the shoulder line and I spread that open another 6 inches.
And then it sent her front I think I came out about another 4 to 6 inches so
I had lots of fullness here. And you’ll notice that the front of this there’s
the the hem level right here and you can see how long the back becomes and so I
just had to graduate the hem from a shorter front down through the side seam
and I kept going to the hemline at the back. The only thing you need to make
very certain of is that when you do that that the side seams are the same
length when you end up on the back and the front after drawing them both. And
then of course on the back of the pattern I’ve got some fullness back here
as well so I took the back pattern I sliced from the hemline
up to the shoulder line and spread that open about six inches and added a little
bit of fullness at the side seam so it was just actually a lot of fullness
being added to the drape at the hemline. I hope you enjoyed this short video on
how to raise the arm sigh up in your Shirt Kit. You can see how totally
flexible your Sure-Fit Designs Shirt Kit is going to be. And I would invite you to
join our Sure-Fit Designs community and you can do that very quickly. Go to our main website and request to join the newsletter list
it’s totally free to do that. Number two make sure you like and subscribe to our
youtube channel which is just surefitdesigns. And last but certainly not least
if you have a Facebook presence and would like to join our private group
please make sure that you request to join and participate in the fun of
seeing everybody’s garments the asking of the questions and the interacting
with one another. And you can do that by going to forward slash
groups forward slash surefitdesigns. Thank you so much for watching and I
hope to see you in the next video.

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6 thoughts on “How to Raise the Shirt Pattern Armscye by Sure-Fit Designs

  1. Glenda, can you please explain why someone might want to raise the armscye? What does this accomplish? How will this impact the fit?

  2. You surely are dedicated Glenda, goodness, I subbed you maybe 5 years ago and here you are still going strong with a warm and willing heart ! A belated Happy Easter to you with Gratitude πŸ™‚

  3. Would the same hold true then when wanting to lower an armsyce? Lower on bodice pieces and then on the sleeve?

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