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Hiking in the mountains of Bosnia and Montenegro – Thru-hike Europe LOG#22


Hello and welcome in this new logbook! We shot our last logbook in the mountain range of Prenj. Prenj is known in Bosnia and Herzegovina to be the mother mountain. This mountain group is really impressive, very different from the rest of the mountains of the country, its slopes are very steep, the terrain is rocky and the mountains are quite high. We knew we needed two days to cross this very remote mountain range. Arriving up there, it felt like a real desert of snow. At the end of this first day, we stopped by the mountain hut Vrutak. The snow around the shelter was actually that high that we had to take the shovels to dig our entrance to the cabin. Finally we got in, made some coffe, had a night of rest… Before our second and last day on this beautiful moutain range, from there we had a view on the two main peaks of the group. Something very special to be hiking in a whole mountain range alone. After Prenj, in the first house we crossed, we met a really really nice lady. She couldn’t speak English, we couldn’t speak Serbo-Croatian. She invited us for a coffee, took out some apples, some “domaća rakija” (homemade boose) of course… A nice moment without words you know, just the eyes were enough. From there, we decided to head to the highest village of the country. Lukomir is located at 1,450 meters high, nowadays only 30 people live there and now we know that nobody stays for winter. Up there, we got lucky enough to find an old barn full of hay to sleep. Lukomir lives as a really old village, keeping alive some traditions and old lifestyles. After Lukomir, we headed to Sarajevo. We knew that this city was actually something to see, we’ve been hearing about this since our childhood for quite sad reasons but we really wanted to see it by ourselves, to see what it became 20 years after everything that happened there. As soon as we arrived, we met with Mustafa and Sumeja. Both of them are hikers, mountaineers, they belong to the association Avantur, meant to promote the natural richness of the country. Mustafa is studying archeology, he knows a lot about History, he gave us a really nice tour in the city by night. We were very charmed by those little streets, felt it is very rich and divers, that this cross of cultures is actually something beautiful. Mustafa also introduced us to a friend of his: Emir, another student in archeology. Emir invited us to his place for a few nights, cooked for us… Emir was just great, he told us a lot about the city, about the country, History as well, sharing with him was super nice. Near Sarajevo, we also made another encounter. We got in touch with Olja Latinovic for a few months now, she is Project Coordinator for the association Terra Dinarica, which is in charge of supporting the developpement of the Via Dinarica in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We spent a really nice time with her and her family. We got the chance to interview Olja about her job on the Via Dinarica. Stay tuned, in a few days you will be able to see this interview! After Sarajevo, we went back on our route and crossed towns like Trnovo, Kalinovic a part of the country which is actually under the entity of the Republika Srpska. In this part of the country, most of the people are Orthodox. This entity is a total different part of the country There are two of them in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is very difficult to understand and we advice you to check some videos on Youtube about that because some people will explain it far better than us. In the villages, we could see that the rural life was really old school. We got again really welcomed by charming people, we stopped by the Lalovic family who actually live in a farm, something very basic They showed us the animals, the homemade products they do of course, the rakija, but some meat, some cheese, nice to share this time with Dragoslav and Mira. We wanted to cross the border through the Sutjeska national park but we decided to take another route and entered the country passing by this very famous place making the border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina: the Canyon of Tara. One of the biggest canyons of Europe So for our first day in Montenegro, we planned to hike in the canyon. On the maps, we had spotted a really nice trail but actually, nobody was able to tell us about it, we couldn’t find any information on internet. We decided it to go anyway, the trail was absolutely beautiful, the water was blue, we crossed some old bridges and beautiful waterfalls. At the end, the trail was a dead end and we had to come back on our own tracks for on hiking day to exit this canyon. Back on the plateau, the landscape was very very different. The snow patches on the hills, beautiful landscapes! Arriving next to the canyon of Sušica, we stopped by Nedajno, had a really nice night there and the next morning, started our descent in the canyon. Famous place, the Sušica canyon was really beautiful already touching the national park of Durmitor. On the other side, the small village of Mala Crna Gora This place is the highest village in whole Montenegro Just a few people are staying there in winter and arriving we had the chance to see one window open. This man came out, Milan, we asked if we could get some water Milan of course offered us the water, but he also told Marie that we could stay at his place to sleep. Milan was not speaking english, neither. We tasted his cheese, homemade bread. He played for us some flute and definitely we got drunk with his rakija! The next morning, it was quite tough to back on the trail. We got kind of hangover but we wanted to see some of the Durmitor National Park anyway. After all this rakija, we were not really in the mood of climbing the high peaks of Durmitor but we crossed the park from another way and headed to the city of Žabljak. Žabljak is the highest big city in Montenegro It seems that there is a lot to do in the Durmitor but to know more you will have to wait until the next logbook! See you guys! Bye!

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4 thoughts on “Hiking in the mountains of Bosnia and Montenegro – Thru-hike Europe LOG#22

  1. Insane! Toujours un plaisir de regarder vos vidéos et découvrir les montagnes d'Europe :). Keep up guys, lets go! 😀

  2. Bravo les jeunes
    Çà sent bon la fin de l hiver pour vous 😁
    Un projet grandiose pour vous et tout ceux qui vous soutiennent
    Je prepare pour fêter mes 60ans la va Alpina et m avez bigrement envie d enchaîner par la via dinarica
    A votre retour vous allez sans doute etre# largués"mais comme disait Alfred de Musset "les rêves sont faits pour être réalises
    Cordialement

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