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Hiking England: Pennine Way – Part 10, Hardraw to Keld


Good morning, everyone
I’ve spent the night at the Green Dragon Inn here in Hardraw
I slept extremely well I had a nice meal, gammon steak before I went to bed They’ve provided breakfast in the mornings so I’m
going to have that But first I’m going to check out these falls at Hardraw The tallest ones in England
And then I’m going to have the complimentary breakfast and get on my way to Keld This is where I’ve been staying in the rooms attached
to the pub And it’s through there that you get to the waterfall
You can also pay at the bar because this waterfall is privately owned So here in this natural amphitheatre is Hardraw falls
It’s the um… longest unbroken waterfall in England at over 100 foot
It’s flowing with quite a lot of force today It’s been featured in um… the film Robin Hood:
Prince of Thieves Where um… I think Robin Hood was bathing in the
falls and Maid Marian sees him Hardraw is an old English word which means um…
‘shepherds dwelling’ or ‘where the shepherd stays’ So that gives you another indication of just how old
this little area is With all the little buildings there that have now
just got picnic tables in them Or even just a bench At one point someone put all those stones there for
a reason Okay I’m heading back down to the Green Dragon Inn
now at Hardraw And I’d just like to point out that parts of this bar
date from the 14th century So let’s see if you can tell if it looks that old when
we get inside it Hello little pub cat
It’s a camera Were you by the fire?
Yeah? Now that cat doesn’t date from the 14th century Right, I’m about to leave the Green Dragon Inn
I’ve had a really nice breakfast – complimentary I had: orange juice, cereal, toast, bacon butty um… hot tea, and a hot chocolate and some coffee And that was included in the £35 I paid for the room,
so it’s been an absolutely fantastic good deal here I can just see the um… banner out front, I’ve
only just noticed there’s a green dragon there’s also a whiterose for Yorkshire on it
That’s quite interesting Ididn’t actually notice that there
Hands ares haking a little bit because it’s quite cold out
So I’m going to glove up, I’m going to get going, and I’m going to start climbing Great Shunner Fell I’m climbing out of Wensleydale now up this bridleway
Youseeit’sstillquitefoggyandcloudy It’s actually very veryl ightly snowing on me
Just down there is actually another track called Hearne Coal Road
And it’s um… a very old track taken to a coalmine that would be over in that direction which has long
since closed That’s one thing I always find interesting about
walking across dales and moorland and places in England Even though you can’t see a great deal of anything
really I mean just across the valley I can see a lodge that
you probably won’t be able to make out I mean hundreds of years ago, maybe thousands of years
ago there’d have been a lot of people living up in these hills all doing different things
And then even further back than that this would have all been forest I’m much higher up on Great Shunner Fell now and behind
me you can see the way I’ve come It’s not too bad but looking ahead
See there is going to be a lot more snow, there’s going to be a lot less visibility I’m following these cairns because it’s fairly marshy
and it’s hard to see the path You can just see I’m following like a little trail This little thing with a frozen little puddle at the
bottom is a shake hole You see Ordnance Survey maps littered with these
things and basically it’s just a small subsidence in the ground being a tiny little hollow
You usually find them in groupings Uh oh! Just to give you an idea of how cold and windswept it
is up here just look at all these plants that have blown over and get so heavy with the frost
Massive long shards of ice Almost at the top of Great Shunner Fell now
I’ve been walking through some quite deep snowdrifts and I’ve got to this fence and
Wow! Just look at this fence Look at the ice on it and this style
Yeah, there’s quite a wind up here isn’t there? Ooh cold on my hands! This is the top of Great Shunner Fell
I’m by a wind break, which is It’s a cross made of stone so whichever way the wind
is blowing from you can find one of the quadrants to sit down in and be relatively wind free
It’s been… quite tough today Is that ooh,ice on my chin, wow
Yeah it’s been really tough today Um… quite cold
But my body is warm I’m wearing my base layer, then this grey fleece,
and a bigger fleece, and then this windproof on top So I’ve got four layers on
Umm… yeah… Over halfway so I’ve done the worst of it, haha
Before I got to the fence and I saw I was at the top I was thinking ‘Ooh I should go back’
But nah, I’ve got up so I need to just get down into Thwaite And that’s most of the day done then it’s just like
an hour or so from Thwaite to Keld No big climbs today, this is it
So yeah, let’s have a snack here and then get down from this mountain!
Hi-yah! Ooh wow I did the entire fence
That’s actually very satisfying I’m having a wander around Thwaite in the Yorkshire
Dales, it’s a nice little village And I’m probably going to have a hot lunch somewhere
now Get myself warmed up before heading on to Keld
I’m going to try for a hot lunch here at the Kearton Country Hotel but before I do I’m going to take my boots
off and put them in this boot cover I carry with me Get on just some sandals so I don’t muddy up their nice
carpets I’ve just had an all day breakfast and a hot chocolate
here at the Kearton Country Hotel It’s also got rooms available, but I’m pushing on
to Keld It’s actually the most delicious hot chocolate I’ve
ever had in my entire life Essentially it was a tall glass of really warm milk
and then they give you real Belgian chocolate on a stick and you just put the stick in and twirl it around
and make your own hot chocolate And then of course you add lots of marshmallows, a
cookie, and a big um… blob of cream for yourself to put on
And it was absolutely delicious Climbed right up out of the valley, see it over there
And I’m back up with the snow though it’s very very light snow
It’s nothing too bad, nothing like Great Shunner Fell which you can probably see right over there just
beyond the clouds I could have done without that extra climb today
If I’d known Great Shunner Fell was so bad I would have stopped in Thwaite
But I’m already booked in to Keld so let’s make the best of it and lets try and get there
My hat’s slowly falling over my eyes, look there it goes
Now I can’t see a thing See the snow falling around the sign for the Pennine
Way I’m actually heading to Keld, a fifth of a mile
So it’s just up over there Today has been long – longer than I thought
It’s been cold, a little bit wet It’s kind of annoying actually, because on this section
of the Pennine Way the road goes in a direct route between Hawes and Keld, through Thwaite
And the Pennine Way takes a path which is twice as long and it took you over Great Shunner Fell, which is covered
in snow Well I guess it wouldn’t be interesting walking along
the road, would it? I always enjoy walking through little hamlets like
this This here is Keld in Yorkshire, in the Yorkshire Dales
National Park So here is my accommodation for the night, Keld Lodge,
looking out over this valley I’ve actually stayed in this lodge before
I’m taking my socks off by the way The last time I stayed here it was a Youth Hostel
And in 2006 they put it up for sale and it was bought by this couple who currently run
And it’s a great little place, very very friendly They take you to your room, there’s a drying room so
my boots and my wet clothes are actually in the drying roomrightnow
And I get a free breakfast in the morning so that’s always a good thing
Right I’m feeling pretty knackered so I’m going to get a good nights sleep

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